DAYTON Motors. Smart Motor Management Solutions When operations go down, you want reliable replacement motors to restore operations quickly. We have a wide selection of general-purpose, definite-purpose and HVAC motors to meet your needs. General-Purpose Motors. Capacitor Start Motors. I have a doerr electric motor, lr22132 single phase 220v, 3/4 HP with wires t2, t3, t4, t5, t6, t7, t8 and earth, how do i hook up, any help would be great, paul i have a doerr electric motor, lr22132 single phase 220v, 3/4 HP with wires t2, t3, t4, t5, t6, t7, t8 and earth, how do i hook up, any help would be great.
Hi guys, I understand there are some seriously electrical savvy guys here, so I'm visiting from the South Bend section of the forum. Sorry for the long post, but I've been scouring the 'net for days on this, and there are no other sources I can find. I have a table saw with a 1980's vintage Doerr 1 hp. Capacitor-start, dual voltage single-phase motor, model LR 22152. It was previously set up for 230V, but since the shop where I'll be using it can't be readily set up for 230V, I want to put it back to 115V (where it was when I lent it to my Dad, 25 years ago). The wiring diagram on the motor is, well, cryptic. I've tried to add a pic, but the 'manage attachments' button results in a 'oops, this link appears to be broken' error (I've added pics before - this is an error I haven't seen before here).
I'll describe the diagram - it shows 'P1 Ungrd'd line' by itself, then P2, T8 and T3 joined together (with the caption 'Tape'), then T2, T5 and T4 joined together (with the caption 'Line'). Inside the motor's wiring box are the three wires in from the switch & wall outlet (black, white, and green), and 6 black wires, labeled T1, T2, T3, T4, T5 and T8. The diagram shows P1 ('Ungr'd', which I suspect is the black power wire), P2 (white, neutral wire maybe?) and T2, T3, T4, T5, and T8 wires. All the wires, with the exception of the line-in green (ground) wire and white line-in (neutral) wire are black. Okay so far.but.there is that wire labeled 'T1' that doesn't show anywhere in the diagram, and I'm certain it was used when the motor was wired for 115V (and when used as 230V, as well). I'm at a loss as to where it goes. I'm not comfortable about bundling the wires & trying it until someone who knows about these things gives me some ideas!
Any wiring gurus out there with some thoughts on this?
After visiting several DeVilbiss websites, I determined that in the location they give for the Model number of the pump, there is no stamp nor any plate. There is a smooth area there, at the base of the pump on the side away from the pulley, as though a Model Stamp could have been put there, but there is not one. There is no Model number anywhere around the base of the pump where the pump mounts to the plate on top of the tank. The tank itself has a chrome metal plate with the following information stamped on it. DeVilbiss, 150 psi @ 350 degrees F, max temp and pressure.
On the opposite end of the tank from the pump, there is an electric motor with a Doerr name plate and the following: - 2 HP, 3450 RPM, 230 Volts, Motor Ref. There is a plastic belt and pully shroud which has a faded sears name. The compressor runs good (we initially had an air leakage problem with the pressure regulator, but by simply adjusting it, the unit will kick off at 125 lbs and keep me at an operating pressure above 100 lbs.
I am remodeling an old farmhouse (alone) so I don't make exceptional demand of the unit. My problem stems from the drive belt which is extremely frayed and just about to part. It is an unusual belt and the pulleys on the compressor and motor are likewise unique (at least to me). The belt is 49 1/2' long and 1/2' wide. It is flat on the back with grooves and ridges rather than a V or double V shape. There are five grooves and six ridges that mesh into five grooves and six ridges on the pump and motor pulleys.
The pulleys are flat faced as well except for these grooves and corresponding ridges. The color paint scheme of the tank, pump and motor is black. I suppose it is possible that I could simply exchange the pump and motor pulleys for conventional 'V' shapes and purchase a corresponding belt. However, I'd first like to see if I can find a replacement belt. Any information or help will be greatly appreciated.
Hello All, We are abit stuck - we have a railway locomotive powered by a Perkins 104.19 diesel engine. To provide air for the train, we have a Leyland Compressor 02301 as seen in attached photo, which is attached via two rubber couplings on a drive shaft However we have been unable to identify the lead (circled in red) that is on the side of the compressor and where this fits on the engine. Any ideas what it might be.
Also whilst operating it, from the Unloader Valve as seen in photo 2, there was a yellowly liquid dripping from it. Is this usual?! Any help appreciated Peter. Hi I am so glad I found ur page. I have been looking for a month for information on this small air compressor.
I picked it up at a swap meet about a month ago. It is 14 1/2' long by 7 ' wide and about 10' tall. The name plate says Kellogg division American break shoe company Rochester NY the model number is unreable and the serial is 165431. It has a GE 1/3 hp 1725 rmp motor. My father in law lives in Rochester and this would look great in his garage, but I would like to know exactly I am giving him. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated Thank you Scott Hineman Enterprise WV PS it does have 4 rubber feet on base Comments for Unidentifed vintage Kellogg american break shoe small air compressor.